Showing posts with label Sailing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sailing. Show all posts

Monday, May 29, 2017

Calpe and Altea Sailing the Costa del Blanco of Spain


October 1-2,   2012

If you want to get a bird’s eye view of Calpe, its white beaches that give this coast its name, and the surrounding countryside, then the way to do it is to climb the famous Penon D'Ifach, the huge rock headland dominating the landscape. It was high on Rob’s agenda on this stop as he didn’t get a chance to do it when we were here earlier in the year on Moksha.

Marc decided a gentle walking exploration of the town was more in order while Karen wisely decided the climb may not be advisable given the track to the top is described in Lonely Planet as very physical with the warning that you ‘take your life in your own hands.’
Morning coffee looking out at our boat still has us pinching ourselves to check it's real

After a coffee stop at a beach front café we all headed off on our separate adventures with the plan to meet for lunch two hours later.  

The going up the rock proved to be quite varied and ranged from easy paths lower down until a rough, unlit tunnel through to the seaward side is reached. There’s a sign in multiple languages at the entrance with the English text simply stating that ‘It is dangerous to go beyond this point’. Very reassuring. It’s very steep and the limestone has been polished to a slippery sheen by all the feet that have passed through over the years. The ropes strung on each side are needed to pull yourself up and onwards in a number of places.
Beyond this point things get very interesting
Tthe famous Penon D'Ifach rock at Calpe is not the place to slip off the trail
This is the widest and safest part of the track up Penon D'Ifach rock at Calpe.

Emerging into the light you’re greeted with a very narrow path of equally treacherous polished rock and need to hug the cliff face as you make your way across to where the trail becomes a little less frightening for a short while. The climb continues to be quite steep as you progress upwards and the path splits into various trails different people have blazed. It becomes necessary to stop and take a good look at what goes where before choosing a route. It’s all quite steep and by the time you eventually approach the top some rugged bolder hopping is required.  Grab ropes are very few and far between. Australian health and safety officers no doubt would have a nightmares if they ever saw this place.
WOW FACTOR PLUS. The white speck nearest the breakwater is Alcheringa.
However, if you survive to crest the top, WOW! If you aren’t already gasping for air from the climb the 360 degree views will definitely take your breath away. Sea views to the south, the Spanish coast stretching both east and west plus dramatic mountain ranges to the north. A definite, Oh my God moment. Rob found it easy to excuse the 20 minutes or so spent at the summit as required to take it all in but the reality is every minute of recovery time was needed before facing the equally challenging decent. Maybe a pair of sneakers that didn’t have totally worn out soles may have helped limit the amount of slip sliding away on the downward trek.


Every minute of the twenty minutes at the top was needed for re-oxygenation.
OK - Time to go down, down, down.
Meanwhile Karen and Marc were sipping drinks waiting for lunch on the beachfront
 The up had taken 90 minutes. Add 20 minutes sucking in big breathes and he had all of ten minutes to make his luncheon appointment with Karen and Marc. Mmmm! That wasn’t going to happen. A quick ‘I’m going to be late’ text message had that covered. An hour later he emerged from the tunnel with another couple of kilometres to go but had a very good view of Alcheringa anchored out in the bay dancing very energetically up and down on her anchor chain as the wind was now blowing at 15+ knots straight in to the beach. Another text suggested to Marc and Karen that maybe it was time to meet back at the dingy and get out of dodge or face a very uncomfortable night bouncing around again. Having sat in the restaurant for an hour reading the menu while waiting for Rob to descend from the heavens this was not a proclamation that was all that well received but a quick look at the building swells hitting the beach soon had them on the move back to the dingy.

Karen in control as we say goodbye Calpe
So half an hour later we were again upping anchor but this time it was just for a short, mid-afternoon move 8 miles across bay to Altea in the protection of the big cape Punta del Albir. Comfortably in time for sundowners, we were re-anchored just off the beach where it was both very beautiful and very calm.

Cruising past the church on the hill at Altea peaked our interest to have a look
So calm, so peaceful, so nice.
Alcheringa with Calpe in the background
Next morning we took the dingy in to the beach and set off on a long walk along the sea front to the old town. This part of the coast provides a pleasant contrast to high-rises and over development that has marred much of the Spanish Mediterranean Coasts and we quite enjoyed our brisk stroll.  

Up, up and up some more at Altea

We then climbed up through the steep lanes and narrow streets to reach the big church on the hill that dominates all views of the bay. The church is fronted by a delightful square lined with cafes that we soon discovered were all priced for the Northern European tourist market. As usual, we were required to drop the obligatory gold coin in the box at the door to enter the church. Rob still struggles with that concept. After all, the churches of the world aren’t exactly doing great business these days and charging at the door is unlikely to encourage new clients.

Time for a breather halfway to the top
 
 

After viewing more beautifully decorated altars, idols and some magnificent art we wound our way down through more delightful cobblestone streets devoid of motor vehicles and discovered the Cellar Bar. It was hot. We’d walked a long way and we needed some rehydration plus it offered free WIFI and Rob had been lugging his lap top around all day waiting to upload the latest chapter of our travels. The appropriate blog sacrifice was soon offered up to the gods of the cyberworld  while we consumed 2 beers, 2 wines and 4 tapas all for a grand total of 5.50 Euro ($6.85). We had a hard time keeping a straight face as we paid the bill. How can anyone be making money at that?
All roads lead to the Celler Bar - well eventually they do.

Our next task was choosing one of the many beach front café/restaurants to have lunch at. In the end we settled on a huge bowl of steamed mussels each accompanied by lashings of fresh crispy bread all washed down with the obligatory bottle of vino tinto (red wine) for the price of a Big Mac Meal at home in Australia.  This was developing into a very good day.
It was a long way back to Alcheringa anchored up in the lee of the point

We then embarked on our ‘great march’ mark two to return the five kilometres back to the beach  where Alcheringa was bobbing gently in thankfully still very calm seas just a hundred metres from the sand.

Some people have asked how we get any exercise cooped up on a 13.2 metre long yacht. Well apart from cranking winches, pulling on lines and constantly working muscles to balance ourselves to the constant movement of the boat when underway, if you think back on our activities in this chapter of the blog you’ll get an insight into our fitness regime. Other than the very, very occasional taxi ride, we walk everywhere.  We haven’t actually driven a car since being in the UK in early June. Hopefully this will keep us fit enough to sail the globe for many years to come.

For more about our travels check out and 'like' our Dreamtimesail facebook page at
 http://www.facebook.com/DreamtimeSail?ref=hl
Altea turned on an awesome sunset to cap off a fantastic day
 

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Thursday, May 25, 2017

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Monday, January 2, 2017

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Saturday, December 31, 2016

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Thursday, September 15, 2016

Sailing the awesome Amalfi Coast – Part 1


August 3, 2013

 From the time we first started dreaming about sailing the Mediterranean, cruising along the world famous Amalfi Coast has been right up the top of our Must dolist and now we were finally going to tick that box. After a fantastic stay at the Isle of Capri we were up with the sun and on our way.


Karen standing lookout on the bow as we head for the narrow gap between
two of the Isle of Capri's Faraglioni.
We made the most of the early start and lack of other boats on the move took the opportunity to set our course straight between Capri’s Faraglioni. That is the Italian term used to refer to stacks or what we would often refer to as pinnacles of rock. The most famous faraglioni are the three stacks located off the island of Capri in the Bay of Naples. The stacks have been given their own names: Stella (still attached to the main island), Mezzo and Scopolo. Their heights are 109 m, 82 m and 106 m, respectively with quite deep water right up to their vertical faces.


Made it!
Mezzo is inhabited by the Podarcis sicula coerulea and the only place in the world in which this particular species of lizard has been found. It is believed that the amphibians' blue colored skin is the result of evolutionary adaption, which occurred following the separation of the rock from the mainland. Mezzo also features a large central cavity, through which small boats can easily navigate but we had to settle for slipping through the gap between it and Stellawhich was a cool enough photo opp for us.


Karen's Father, Trevor, on the bow and watching the coast slide by.
The conditions were dead still. No good for sailing but a glorious day to motor along one of the world’s most picturesque coastlines. We crossed the strait and made our way towards Positano under the towering cliffs of the peninsula. There are a number of marine reserves in this area where no navigation at all is permitted other than if you’re making your way to pre-booked, authorised mooring buoys. Even that must be done at slow speed. The pilot guides provide very specific warnings about these. They are clearly marked on all charts and plotters and their boundaries are even marked by large, bright yellow buoys. While we zigged and zagged staying clear, it appeared nobody has actually mentioned them to the Italians. We were quite entertained watching everything from small fishing boats, some trolling lines, to huge pleasure craft and commercial ferries blasted straight through the no fishing, no anchoring, no navigation marine protection areas at high speed. No doubt if we’d cut a corner anywhere we would have ended up with one of the big fines they talk about.


There's no shortage of expensive super-yachts along the Amalfi coast.
There were a number of very impressive villas, houses and even a couple of small towns dotted along the shore and on the cliff sides but reaching the town of Positano really signalled to us that this is indeed a very special piece of coast line. It is simply stunning. We were in no doubt the best views of this remarkable slice of heaven on earth are from the water. We were extremely thankful it was such a calm, sunny day and we could motor slowly, close to the shore and enjoy the full beauty of all that we were passing.



We'd looked forward to sailing this area for a long, long time.
We’ve included many photos in this blog chapter to provide a bit of a glimpse but if you’d like to see more of the Amalfi coast from the sea, click over to our Dreamtime Sail Facebook Amalfi Coast album for the complete set.



Many resorts perched on the cliffs provide very exclusive sun bathing spots



Every point we rounded revealed more stunning Amalfi scenes


Spectacular stone buildings are plentiful along the Amalfi coast.


We spied these buildings on cliff edges atop massive caves near Amalfi.
Trevor and Joy soaked up the sun and atmosphere.
We were certainly in no rush and wound in and out of the bays adding a few miles to our track but still reached the harbour in time for lunch. We’d kept our options open as there are spots you can anchor off at Amalfi in settled weather but, with a bit of on shore breeze predicted for the evening , we elected to see if we could find a berth. This proved a little easier said than done and we circled around in the outer harbour as Karen made a series of phone calls to the various listings in the pilot guide before hitting pay dirt. Minutes later a dingy came out to meet us but, rather than guide us in, the mariner came aboard and secured his dingy alongside before taking over the helm from Rob saying ‘Welcome to Amalfi. I am Captain now.


Rob appreciated the valet parking service provided at Amalfi harbour
When we saw the tight, tight, tight spot he manoeuvred our 43 foot yacht into without the benefit of a bow thrusters, Rob was more than happy to be a passenger but was quick to ask ‘Getting us back out of here is also part of the service, isn’t it?

At 160 Euro a night, plus 23% if you don’t pay cash because heaven forbid they would have to pay tax if you use credit card, it was certainly not a cheap berth but it was right in the centre of Amalfi and the water was even very clean. So clean we all dived in straight off the boat which was an absolute first for us inside a harbour.


Isle of Capri to Amalfi – 19.9 Nautical Miles – 4 Hours 25 Minutes
Average Speed 4.5 Knots – Max 6.0 Knots
As you’d expect in the height of the summer season, the town was very busy with tourists but we still enjoyed window shopping through the narrow streets and laneways and having a good look around. We had an excellent dinner that evening at an outdoor restaurant right beside the Cathedral stairs and then settled back in Alcheringa’s cockpit with some local wines to enjoy the twilight. We’d no sooner pulled the cork on the first bottle than the entertainment started.



They pack them in here. Note the dingy used to push the white boat over


Karen and Joy were first into Amalfi's clear water


We had a great dinner in the Amalfi town square.
Two, rather large and already well spiritually fortified Russian gentlemen arrived back at their huge, chartered motor boat gin palace accompanied by a couple of local young ladies of the night complete in short, short dresses and ridiculously high stilettos. Perfect boating attire of course. They then sent their skipper and crew off on a long walk, jacked up the stereo, popped the expensive champagne and began dancing with their equally expensive looking companions on the back deck. Well they thought they were dancing but it looked more like some deranged Cossack version of mad cow disease. Their loud efforts to impress all and sundry by singing along with the English language pop songs were so ludicrous all sense of polite decorum disappeared in the marina with boaties everywhere appearing on deck to see the show and making no effort to conceal laughter and ridicule. As a child of six or seven on the boat next to us started to imitate the inebriated dance moves even their hired female companions struggled to keep a straight face.

 The drunken disco on deck lasted for almost two hours before the foursome suddenly disappeared below decks. The two girls reappeared just minutes later and headed off down the dock, prompting one wag on nearby boat to suggest ‘Considering what it probably just cost them, those guys should have spent a lot less time dancing.’

 
MARINA REVIEW: Amalfi Harbour **

Nightly rate for our 43 foot (13.2m) yacht – 160 Euro (Cash price excluding VAT. Includes water & power)

Boats located on permanent moorings make this is very tight harbour in places with a number of concessionaires controlling different sections of the available berths. We can only comment on where we berthed. The positives were that it was ideally located for easy access to the centre of the old town. It was also well inside the harbour offering good protection from the weather. On the negative side, the only bathroom facilities were public toilets ashore which were locked at night. There are no showers at all.

The staff are very friendly and helpful and the location is good but lack of facilities and exorbitant price means only two stars on the value meter from us.

 
 
Sometimes we’re so busy out doing things we don’t have enough time to write about doing things and our blog slips a little behind time. We’re working at getting it all back to current at the moment but to stay right up to date with what we’re up to these days and see lots more photos check out and 'like' our Dreamtime Sail Facebook page at Dreamtime Sail on Facebook
If you have only recently discovered our blog and would like to read how it all started, or work through our previous adventures, click the link to go back to our first blog entry. Stuff it. Let's just go sailing anyway.  We hope you enjoy reading the previous posts to catch up on our story.
 
 

 

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