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Friday, June 2, 2017

Choice Plans for a plywood jon boat

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Wednesday, May 31, 2017

Cool Do you need a boat licence for a kayak

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Here Plans to build a dragon boat

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Sunday, May 21, 2017

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Thursday, May 18, 2017

Cool How to build a center console for a jon boat

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Sunday, May 14, 2017

Hello my name is Bob and Im a battery abuser Hi Bob!

Behold the flooded lead acid battery, unfortunately a perennial favorite of all too many boaters. Why? They cost less than better battery types such as sealed or AGM's. When I say they cost less I mean they are the cheapest battery you can buy. They do work well, if you can, and do check them on a regular basis, and the hotter the ambient temperatures become, the more often you have to check them. The words of the day are "evaporation, and accessibility."

I look at Bob shuddering, and wringing his pasty white smooth hands as he stares down into the crammed full engine room. Battery problems again Bob? You had these changed just last year didn't you? Where did you get them from, Wallymart? You did? Hum-mm ahhh, who installed them Bob? Your skinny nephew did? When was the last time you checked the water levels in these Wallymart batteries?

I already knew the answer. There were never checked, and in south Florida this is an issue. I try to wriggle out of changing batteries when ever possible. I have through the years schlepped in and out more than my fair share of impossibly heavy lead boxes oozing sulfuric acid from locations that are virtually impossible to access.

I believe that when many boats are built, the factory employees that are used for battery installs are the ones who spend so much time at the gym, they no longer have a neck. They wrestle the huge batteries to the outboard sides of the engine compartment. The engines are then hoisted in to block access. Lots of other stuff is installed to insure that it will take a herculean effort to get to them. I see your problem Bob, I think you should get your mechanic to change the batteries. It looks the exhaust system needs to be removed to get at them.

This week was less than auspicious. Jupiter had aligned with Mars, and were both trying to molest Virgo. While casting my chicken bones to project revenues, the wishbone broke. I should have stayed at home. There were two identical problems. The first one occurred when a chart plotter I had just installed was reported to be cycling on and off during a sea trial. The second problem was exactly the same, but it was happening to a chart plotter I had installed years ago.

At dock, while on the charger, both units performed perfectly. But while underway, they would cycle on and off. Since funds for the new install would not be promptly forthcoming until the owner was satisfied it was not all my fault, it instantly became the first on my list. When I tell you it's not about the money, my inside voice is yelling it really is. I go to the boat, which is thoroughly enclosed in canvas. I unzipped a bunch of yardage to get the temperature down to about 100 degrees. The chart plotter is turned on, and works great. I pull the unit to measure the input voltage, and it's 12.80 volts. This number strikes me as being a bit odd. Since the charger was on I was expecting at least 13+ volts.

I don't have keys to the boat, and in the heat I was a little short on the patience needed to pick the lock. I killed the power at the pedestal to turn off the charger, and remeasured the voltage. It was now instantly at 10.50 volts. At least one of the batteries had a shorted cell, and nobody had realized it until the new chart plotter was installed. The boat had a sea trial a few days before. The engines were started while the charger was plugged in. But the the power needed to keep spark plugs, blowers, refrigerators, and chart plotters happy wasn't occurring despite the efforts of the alternators. The voltage levels were high enough to keep the engines running, but it wasn't adequate for the chart plotter which was now turning on and off.

The second boat had an identical problem, but in this case it had diesel engines. Once started they didn't need any real Mr. Electricity to run, but this boats DC panel was lit up. Everything was on. TV's satellite system, ice makers, frig, head, you name it. Mechanics were on board doing routine maintenance when I looked at it. In this case there wasn't a shorted cell, but when the charger was turned off, you could see the voltage count down slowly to about 11.9 volts. Looking at the batteries one had obviously been boiled into oblivion, and refilled in the hopes it would be okay. It wasn't.

In the latter case, there was no way to tell when the batteries were installed. No Sharpie had written a date, and those little circles you can remove to indicate the install date were intact. This is a big pet peeve of mine. It just takes seconds to do, and even as distracted as I can be at times (Oh, look at that! It's sparkly and shiny) I always mark the date.

So back to the words of the day. A boat in southern latitudes closed up with canvas can easily achieve temperatures of well over 100 degrees, increasing the evaporation rates from the batteries. This when coupled with the temperature rise that is a side effect of charging exacerbates the problems. Add to this mix poor access to the batteries making checking them difficult. Lack of maintenance inevitably leads to the early demise of flooded lead acid batteries, resulting sometimes in a bang or worse.

There are two class of owners. Those who are ever vigilant, and those who are less so, or physically unable to. In the case of batteries, in all scenarios sealed (maintenance free) or AGM's are a better choice in hot environs. It's one thing you can look at less often. By that I mean you can't ignore them completely, but in the summer time here, flooded lead acid batteries should be checked prior to every use, and not less than once a month.

My rule of thumb is that flooded lead acid batteries should be replaced every two years. Stop that wincing right now. I know they may last longer, but when the batteries fail on the big trip you planned for months with your mother in law on board, stranding you in a godforsaken location you will wish you had heeded my sage advice. I think maintenance free batteries are good for about three years, and AGM's for at least four years. My attorneys have suggested the disclaimer be added that this depends on use, loads, and doesn't include charging systems that have psychotic episodes.

Gosh Bob, your mechanic won't change the batteries for you? Gee I'd like to help install the new Wallymart flooded batteries Bob, but I'm on vacation in..... Greenland, yeah that's right in Greenland, and I won't be be back for months.

There is a simple way to get a general idea of your battery's condition. Turn off the battery switches, and everything on the DC panel. Turn the charger on, and leave the boat for a day. When you come back to the boat turn off the charger, and go to lunch.

After a long lunch, turn the battery switches on. If your DC panel shows voltage, use it and write down the voltages of each bank. If you don't have a fancy panel gauge turn on the ignition switches for each engine, and record the voltage on the dash panel gauges. A DC multimeter measurement directly from the batteries works better, there is some voltage drop by the time you get to the gauges. Another other good option is to have your tech periodically load test the batteries.

Now look at the chart. If you have 12.6 volts or better you're good to go. At about 12.3/4 volts you have about 70 percent capacity. At about 12 volts only 50 percent, and you would be lucky to get an engine start. My advice is if your standing fully charged voltage is much less than 12.4 volts, you better start shopping around for new batteries. By the time the fully charged voltage drops a mere .4 more volts you're going to wish you had a fully charged handheld VHF radio to call Seatow.

What again? The attorneys have asked me to advise you this is just a general rule of thumb, and I'm not responsible for your batteries exploding, and catching the boat on fire, or the loss of eyebrows.

Saturday, May 13, 2017

Nice Nicaragua Dugout and a Few North American Canoes

Yesterday I received training in first aid and CPR at Three Rivers Whitewater in The Forks, Maine. (The town is named for the confluence of the Kennebec and Dead rivers.) This whitewater raft trip outfitter runs The Boatman's Bar & Grill, the interior of which is decorated with several interesting boats, prime among them a 20th century dugout canoe from Nicaragua.

The boats are displayed on walls and ceiling. I've rotated the photos for the most logical view of the boats, but the context may appear confusing for that reason.

We'll begin with three full-length photos of the dugout. We're looking at the bow here. The sides of the boat are thin -- about 1" thick. The ends only appear to be thick and heavy, and what we're seeing here is actually an overhang beyond the buoyant section of the hull.

View from the stern. The hull is carved from the trunk of a conifer that is known in Nicaragua as a spruce, but it is a far harder wood than northern spruces.

I estimate overall length at 16', and maximum beam around 14".

The bow shows substantial overhang. The hull bottom is somewhat flattened, but the sections are quite round overall. With its narrow beam, this must be a rather tippy boat. And given its extreme length:beam ratio, it would be fast but very difficult to turn. Definitely a craft for protected waters only.

Top view of the bow, showing the stem decoration.

Top view of the stern. The sharply-pointed shape of the carved interior contrasts nicely with the rounded end of hull's exterior form. As at the bow, the apparently heavy stern is actually an overhang, and the stern itself is not much thicker than the sides.

Side view of the stern, showing the round hull and overhang.

Hanging just above the dugout is this canvas-on-frame double-paddle canoe. It was built by a member of Rhode Island's Haffenreffer family, famous as the brewers of Narrangansett Beer and benefactors of the Haffenreffer Museum, Brown University's museum of anthropology (which, by the way, possesses some excellent, very old Inuit kayaks).

Looking at the bow of the Haffenreffer canoe. This looks like a handy, stable, fun boat for exploring tiny streams and backwaters.

A square-sterned "Grand Laker" canoe is hanging upside-down from the ceiling of the dining room. Probably from eastern Maine (i.e., "down east"), the cedar hull was once covered with a canvas skin. It looks to be in good condition.

The Grand Laker has rather square sections amidships, half-ribs between every rib, a full-length keelson over the ribs, and four nicely-proportioned thwarts with a subtle arch.

Another canvas-on-cedar canoe, this one a double-ended solo boat with nice heart-shaped decks (unfortunately painted, not varnished). The presence of a seat in the stern is surprising, as a paddler sitting there would make the boat extremely stern-heavy. It's probably less than 12' long, so it's unlikely that it was used for extended tripping with loads of gear in the bow to level out the trim. The starboard gunwale is cracked amidships, giving the boat a sharply-angled outline.

Tuesday, May 9, 2017

New anode fitting on a steel keel box

Dix Design www.dixdesign.com provides the drawing to make the Dix 43 keel box in steel. In the case of one wood/epoxy boat the keel shoe is 1.1mtrs, high and 4.4 mtrs, long and around 430mm wide at the top of the keel. It weighs one ton and the internal cast lead five tons.

'This zinc anode can be re used but as the new one had been purchased, that one went on anyway.

This anode weighs four kgs, the one it has replaced was the same and had lost just 80 grams in two and a half years in the water.

The stud below the anode is a drain out plug to remove the fluid (diesel) from the tank area in the keel box.

Note the hole in the zinc, that was drilled out using a new 32mm flat bit and a large electric drill.

There are some alloy anodes on the market, they sell for less but will do less and not last as long!

Roy

Friday, May 5, 2017

How to make a cart for a kayak

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Here Plans to build a pontoon boat trailer

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